Ford Model A Turn Signal Wiring Diagram
By William Hoffer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:51 am: For safety, I have decided to add LED lighting to my 1911. I will be running a total loss battery system. I am leaving the brass lights stock and adding inconspicuous supplemental lights. I have red strip lights for the rear and small white/amber lights for the front. The lights have 3 leads each - a ground, a running light, and a bright brake/turn signal light. I also want to add some type of chime to let me know the turn signals are operating. I plan to use a toggle type switch to control the turn signals and an on-off push button to control the running lights. I bought a brake light switch from Lang's that mounts to the hogshead and connects to the pedal.
I can do house wiring, but I am having trouble visualizing how to hook all of this together to get the desired results. I am an electrical dope who will need a simple wiring diagram showing the components and wires and how they should connect. The ones I have found online do not seem to address my needs.
Is there an electrical guy out there who can lay this out and maybe recommend what I need for a flasher, a fuse holder, and a box in which to make the connections? Again, if you use electrical symbols other than +, -, or ground, I am lost. Draw me a picture, please.
Cheers, and Thanks for any help, Bill
By William Dizer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 05:31 am: Ok, auto wiring still works on the same basis as home. Auto wiring, the ground system is normally black wires, power anything but black. In your design, you will have to have separate brake and turn signal lamps at the rear. This is because you do not have a fancy turn signal switch to turn off the brake lamp when that side turn signal is on. Many new cars have separate brake and turn signal bulbs now.
On an automobile, the ground side of the battery is connected directly to the frame/chassis. This way the whole car becomes the ground, and you do not need to run a separate ground to each lamp.when you mount each lamp, simply ground the -lamp wire to to the frame or body. For your running lamps, a wire from the positive side of the battery, through a small inline fuse, probably no more than five amp, to the switch you are using. Then wire to the front and rear lights, first to one, then on to the second. These will be the dimmer of the lamps. Next the brake lamp wiring. The brake lamps are again already grounded at the lamp, so you do the same as the driving lamps, fun a fused wire straight to the brake light switch, Then another wire from the switch back to the two rear brake lamps, this time to the bright side of the lamp. The brake lights should work every time you step on the brake pedal.
Now the turn signals. You will need a special flasher that will flash under the very light load of led lights. Your auto parts store should have it. Also a buzzer for the warning, easiest would be two buzzers, one for right, another for left. Not sure what is available for those. Basic wiring is another fused power wire to the + side of the flasher, then from the other terminal of the flasher to the center connection of the turn signal switch. Next a wire from the switch, to the same side front and rear bright side of the lamp, plus to the buzzer + side. Ground the buzzer and when the switch is turned to that side the lamps should flash, and the buzzer buzz. Do the same for the opposite side, and you are done! Keep the wires neat, away from exhaust, or moving parts, tape or wire tie them together, up out of sight.
A simple wiring harness would be a trailer wire set for a light boat trailer. It would have four color coded wires. That would give you the running lights, brake, and two turn signal wires, all together.
By Bob Coiro on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 09:39 am: I've been getting very good, trouble-free service from a turn-signal 'brain-box' manufactured by a small Mom & Pop shop called "Tickin' Through Time."
Here's their website:
http://ronsmachineshop.com/Hidden_Turn_Signal_Kits.html
The gizmo is designed for antique cars and comes with a beeper that sounds when the turn-signals are flashing (which is handy because it's not like we're going to have the two little green arrows flashing on our dashboards to remind us the thing is flashing).
You can also order, from Tickin' Through Time, their 4-way flasher circuit which plugs right into their turn-signal brain-box and consumes almost no space.
It's good for a slow-moving Model T Ford to have 4-way flashers.
-For my 4-way flashers, I mounted a small on-off button to my mini-panel.
I protect my brain-box in a ventilated plastic box mounted with velcro to the floor of my rear, under-seat storage compartment.
The unit comes with a switch to operate the system, but I ditched that and bought a miniature on-off-on switch from Radio Shack and hid it in the mount for my hand-Klaxon horn.
You can find an on-off-on mini-switch online here:
https://www.jameco.com/z/MTS-103-Toggle-Switch-Miniature-Single-Pole-Double-Throw-MTS103-On-Off-On-120-Volt-AC-6-Amp-1-4-Inch-Mounting_21910.html?CID=GOOG&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46K5p_zN2gIVRSaGCh0l7gKXEAkYAyABEgJB6vD_BwE
It pays to draw up a little pencil sketch of the wire runs so you can make up a nice, neat wiring harness.
-To keep the wiring from getting hot, it pays to use a heaver than necessary gauge of wire. \white[-}This is especially true if you're going to run the wiring behind upholstery. -I'm a believer in "hard-wiring," and by that, I mean using as few pull-apart/push-together electrical plugs as possible. -If you need to splice, it's better to solder than to use plugs.
By William Hoffer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 10:04 am: Thanks for the suggestions! I do need a sketch showing how to connect these things together with wire. An actual drawing, in other words. Flashers come in two prong and three prong versions. Which should I use? My lights all have 2 separate circuits in them, one for running lights which are dim, and a separate one for the bright turn signals and brake lights. I have tested the lights, but connecting them up with the control switches and flasher is very confusing. For example, when you have your foot on the brake and are simultaneously signaling a turn, how does the one light know to flash while the other is constantly bright? And how does a dpdt switch circuit work? I am a dope, I admit it...Bill
By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 10:15 am: William, Standard 6 volt flashers won't work with LED lights. There isn't enough load to trip the flasher. You will need to add a resister(s) to the turn signal circuit. I'm hoping someone here can give the value needed.
By Marty Bufalini - Grosse Pointe, MI on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 10:30 am: I'm with William. The explanation is great but, not being too bright, I could use a diagram.
By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 11:11 am: I'm another electronic ignoramus, but I have managed to convert some twelve volt incandescent trailer lights to six volt LED. They normally ride in a box, and only come out if I get stuck out after sundown. So far I have them set up only for tail lights, so I'm another who hopes somebody will come up with a diagram and detailed instructions for turn signals. 
A hook made from 1/8" welding rod... 
...and a rubber bungee help the magnet keep the light in place.
By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 11:19 am: By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 11:42 am: The diagrams by Ben Hardeman are dated 2005, so I assume they're for incandescent lights. That means you'll need to add a resistor if the flasher isn't specifically made for LED use. I gather it would go between the flasher and the switch. Is that right? If it's needed, how much resistance?
By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 11:57 am: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Load-Resistors-for-LED-Turn-Signa l-/
By Duey_C west central, MN on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:12 pm: Bill, are you using 6 or 12 volt?
If someone doesn't come up with it, I use a 12 volt flasher at work that works with LED turn lamps.
I'll look at the number on the box tomorrow if that'll help. It's 3 prong flasher but I only use the + and the - terminals.
This flasher is polarity sensitive.
Found that out after my helper wired it up backwards and the lamps wouldn't blink. :-)
By Pat Kelly Montana on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:21 pm: I used a two filament headlight bulb to add load to the LED circuit which is enough to operate a standard flasher unit. Just ran the right through one filament and left through the other.
By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 03:46 pm: Pat - Seems like that bulb could not only provide the needed resistance, but could also be a great way to set up some sort of visible indicator on or around the dash someplace, to serve as a visible indication that ya' forgo to turn off yer' turn signal, huh?
By William Hoffer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 04:05 pm: I will be running 12 volts, Duey. Have a new lawnmower battery for the job.
I found out that LED lights take special flashers which are readily available. I am building this system from scratch, so there is no existing wiring that will impact this project. Perhaps the bikers can give us some pointers - apparently they have started to add these lights to old motorcycles! I will share what I learn, but if anyone reading this has answers, please post away!
Cheers, Bill
By William Dizer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 04:36 pm: Bill, I gave you the information you need in the very first response to your post. It appears no one has bothered to actually read it all the way through! It is very simple!
By William Hoffer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 05:46 pm: I will give it a shot this week after the Rux is back together. I did read it, just need a picture. I am no electrician! Thanks for the input! Bill
By Walt Berdan, Bellevue, WA on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 06:02 pm: Bill (or others) -
It isn't all that hard, hotrodders have been doing this for a long time. The following shows a few options and includes wiring diagrams.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/turn-signals.html
I mocked this up with the trailer conversion option to utilize the brake lights as both turn and brake with one of the 4 to 3 wire converters. Works great on negative ground systems with either 6 or 12 volts but not so much with my positive ground Model A.
By Pat Kelly Montana on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 07:12 pm: Harold, yes it does. I hid everything up under the dash but you can still see the flashing and it provides a reminder.
By William Hoffer on Sunday, April 22, 2018 - 07:28 pm: Thanks Walt. This is more like what I need. Any other ideas or suggestions are welcome! Bill
By Duey_C west central, MN on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 09:13 pm: The flasher we use is a Standard EFL-3. One unused prong. Perhaps the EFL-2 would fill the need also. Never tried one.
Some silly notions:
We use a single pole double throw switch for the blinkers. 3 terminals and super simple like what Walt found.
There are toggle extensions available for this purpose that work really nice too. Some toggles are darned tough to move off-on-off after a spell.
They're a couple inches long and you just push them down on the toggle. The ones we use are yellow but the effort is reduced a bunch.
Good schematic find Walt. Nice simple approach.
In the first drawing, when you flip the switch to the left, the center and right hand contacts are actually touching. It's drawn backwards.
Trent got it figured by the second drawing and compensated for it but I think flip the switch to the left and the left lamps blink.
So put your gReen (Right blinker) on the left terminal and the LeLLow (Left blinker) on the right terminal.
I don't understand the complication of using a 4 terminal switch when just 2 terminals are needed for park lamps or hazards...
Another option for wire is 16-3 SO or SJ cord. Round (about 3/8"), black cord to be inconspicuous.
One common ground for all lamps back under the dash by your switch might work if you wish to do it that way.
The flat trailer wire sure can be used that way too. Works good.
Sorry for my babbling and the bump. I'm gonna go potty and go outside.
:-)
By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 10:49 pm: The wiring is kinda simple for this if just using a toggle switch and incandesant bulbs. I think once the circuit is laid out with regular bulbs, when the led�s are put in, the flasher can be replaced with a electronic 1. My 150 uses a 2 terminal flasher and I upgraded to the electronic flasher a few years ago so if I wanted to change to led bulbs ,that would be took care of. And it is louder than the thermal flasher about clicing, which is good for aging ears.
To begin, Lay out the bulbs In their housings, switch and wires and battery. In your case, ground each light housing to the negative of the battery.
Run a hot wire from the positive of the battery to 1 side of a 2 prong flasher
Run a wire from the second prong of the flasher to the center terminal of a spdt center off switch. That Is Single pole, double throw switch with the center being off.
Run a wire from 1 side of the switch to what will be the left turn bulbs
Run another wire from the last terminal to what will be the right turn signals.
You should now be able to make lights blink.
There are lighted toggle switches, but I have not used them for this purpose.
My turn signals on my pickup project would probably make some folks dizzy to figure out. I wanted to put a brass tube in the holders on the column. But there was not alot of room for wires. So my turn signals are not "grounded" to the chassis. The flasher is in the ground circuit and each turn signal fixture has it's own ground wire along with the hot 1 for left and right. This method allowed me to route only 1 hot wire thru the tube to work the horn and turn signals instead of 2 to work them separately.
By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 12:45 am: Yes, you need an electronic flasher, not a thermal one. The e-flasher has a click to it so no chime may be needed.
You probably need a turn signal switch like Mack pictured above first because it may have a lot of the wiring and parts needed already. I bought one but have not wired it up yet.
On our 53 Ch3vy I custom made the wiring by separating the turn light from the brake light with an an additional dual element bulb, all LEDs. It also has a separate e-flasher for the emergency lights that are not connected to the turn lights at all. Instead they flash the parking lights so that the turn signal is still seen by other drivers. I have seen no other car capable of doing this.
By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 10:37 am: A simple spdt center off switch will work fine for turn signals.
This style set up is still under the dash of my dads 49 chevy pickup.Worked great.He got the truck sometime about 56 and had turn signals and dual heaters in it.
IF I could draw pictures that a person could interpret better than hieroglyphics I would draw a schematic.I can read them,but cant draw them.
By John Saylor, Citrus Heights, Ca on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 11:43 am: Mounted my switch on the column using a horn button housing.
On my other car I used a 3/4" pvc pipe fitting cut down to mount the switch
I added a second switch below the dash wired to flash all four lights for emergency flasher
By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 11:47 am: OK William Hoffer, I have drawn a schematic for the turn/brake/park assuming brake switch part 3158RS, four double-element lights, fuse, toggle turn switch with off position, and park light switch. It's just scribbled on a piece of paper. So, allow me to make it pretty today.
By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 01:28 pm: I made my own turn signal and brake system. I have 12V LED motorcycle indicators on all 4 corner. My switch is nearly identical to John Saylor's modified horn bottom switch. For a signal wire I used a thermostat wire, it runs up the same tube on my steering column as the horn. I wrapped it in Friction Tape where it could be seen to look more period correct.
The guts are homemade. I use a 12V sealed battery for an emergency exit light. My battery is way bigger than it needs to be. Nice thing it does not require to be charged often. It is setup for a John Regan magneto charger, which I have never installed the bulb. The AUX is used both to charge my phone or as a charge port to recharge the battery.
Not seen is a brake switch for a 50's era Chrysler. Which was really easy to mount.
By Bruce Spainhower - Portland, Oregon on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 02:11 pm: Bill, you asked for a schematic. Here's how I did my LED headlights and tail lights. For turn signals, you need to follow the wiring diagram that comes with the LED flasher. Just be aware that the Model T puts out a lot of electrical noise. The first flasher I tried (this one) worked perfectly until the engine was running. Then the signals turned into a weird, twitchy, half-bright, useless system. It's trial and error when it comes to electronic flashers in a T.
By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 04:41 pm: 
First of all, no warranties.
Custom to your specs:
The DPDT means double pull, double throw. This is your turn signal switch and it should handle 10 amps.
Your wiring should be 18 gauge wire and you can use a roll of black wire for everything if you wish.
The fuse is 10amp.
There is a three prong electronic flasher:
B = Battery (sometimes labeled "X")
E = Earth, this is the ground or negative.
L = Load, goes to the light bulbs.
Light bulbs:
H = high, for the turn signal (all four)
L = low , for the parking lights (all four)
There are two relays available from the Auto retailers. Their purpose is to decide whether the tail lights get a constant power from the brake light switch or from the flasher, independently. The relays should handle 10amps and are labeled:
30 = to high output of the tail lights.
85 = to ground or negative.
86 = left or right constant power (or none).
87a = normally off position, receives power from the brake switch.
87 = power from turn signal.
In reality the DPDT will look more like this:
By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 06:46 pm: 
If you do not want to share Brake and Turn signals, then you can double the tail lights and do away with the two relays.
By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Tuesday, April 24, 2018 - 07:40 pm: 
With a small modification to either drawing you can use you parking lights as hazard lights.
Why would you want to do this?
Have you ever noticed that cars with hazard lights blinking no longer have turn signals? AND when you apply the brakes, the hazard lights no longer work.
You will need an additional electronic flasher and swap out the SPST switch for a SPDT with center off position. Another reality check: many times the toggle and rocker switches are not wired as they appear. That is, the side you push is not necessarily the side you wire. It's just easier to manufacture these devices backwards.
What do you get? The hazard lights will all blink and the left or right turn signal will blink independently, in slightly different timed cycles.
By William Hoffer on Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 07:09 am: This is by far the best discussion of wiring these devices that I have ever found. Thanks to all, and thanks to Vern for spending so much time presenting the alternatives. I will post my results when my drive train is done. Did I say thanks? THANKS! Cheers, Bill
By Dennis Brown on Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 07:26 am: I may have missed it in the above posts. Experiment a little befor installing and it can save you time and headaches. LED lites only work with current flowing one way. If your lites do not work , switch the wiring at the lites.
By William Hoffer on Friday, May 18, 2018 - 06:31 am: Well, I bought a three prong led flasher at NAPA and hooked it up to one tail light per Vern's diagram above for the spdt switch and got zip. Actually, just 2 individual leds in the array gave a faint glow but no flash. Do all the lights need to be connected before this will work? What am I missing?
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